Lobster Fra Diavlo
Why It Works
Creating a simplified, low-volume lobster stock allows for flavor extraction while reducing both time and effort.
Utilizing the lobster shells in the stock as a steaming "rack" for the claws and tails enhances both efficiency and flavor retention.
White wine, along with a generous amount of olive oil, serves as excellent solvents for the flavor and pigment molecules found in the lobster bodies and shells.
Several years ago, I published a recipe for shrimp fra diavolo, in which I made a clear argument regarding why it was not a recipe for lobster fra diavolo. I stated that shrimp fra diavolo is more suitable for home cooking, while lobster fra diavolo is more appropriate for restaurants, considering the quantity of lobster bodies needed to create a sufficiently lobster-flavored tomato sauce. I also expressed my preference for enjoying lobster when it is steamed and served with drawn butter.
My perspective has not completely shifted. I still prefer to dissect a lobster at the table and savor its sweet flavor in its purest form, and I maintain that, for the most part, lobster fra diavolo is not particularly convenient for home cooks. However, there are exceptions to every rule. In fact, I was so dedicated to crafting an exceptional version of this recipe—one that strikes all the right notes while being streamlined enough for home preparation—that I have become more open than I anticipated regarding the inclusion of lobster fra diavolo on the dinner table; I might even prepare this for myself occasionally. For a special occasion like the Feast of the Seven Fishes, I would certainly make it.
Even in restaurants, I have frequently found myself disappointed with the lobster fra diavolo dishes I have tried (including the two versions I prepared as a line cook during my time in restaurants). My primary objective in developing this recipe was to address my extensive list of grievances with those other iterations and to create a pasta that truly showcases the flavor of lobster. Many recipes fail to adequately emphasize the lobster, burying it beneath an overwhelming amount of tomato, oregano, and intense spices and/or the vanilla-oak flavor of brandy. Numerous platters of lobster fra diavolo also feature rubbery little pieces of lobster meat.
How then could I craft a dish that is distinctly lobster fra diavolo while addressing these prevalent issues? Furthermore, how could I achieve this without complicating the recipe excessively? It required numerous lobsters for me to arrive at this point, but these are my steps to achieving success with lobster fra diavolo.
Create an Intense Stock, but Keep it Quick
Chopped lobster bodies in a generous amount of olive oil in a stockpot: this marks the initial step in producing a flavorful and swift lobster stock.
One observation I made while researching this recipe was that many existing versions instruct you to prepare a comprehensive lobster stock, akin to the traditional French method. This entails using tomato paste, incorporating a full array of aromatic vegetables and herbs, deglazing with brandy, resulting in a relatively large quantity of liquid.
None of this is particularly logical, especially in the realm of home cooking. Firstly, since the final sauce contains a significant amount of tomato, we aim to avoid creating an unnecessarily large quantity of lobster stock. A greater volume of lobster stock merely translates to more time spent reducing it later, or only utilizing a portion of it and forfeiting the flavor contained within the remainder. Thus, my initial step was to minimize the liquid in the stock to the essential minimum, just enough to cover the shells and extract their flavor, and not a drop more. This approach yielded a smaller volume of more concentrated stock.
Subsequently, I streamlined the stock. The final fra diavolo sauce incorporates tomato in both canned and paste forms, so I found no justification for the redundancy of tomatoes.
I also eliminated the brandy. As any student of classic French cuisine is aware, brandy is a frequent partner to lobster, incorporated into stocks, soups, sauces, and more. They typically complement each other...most of the time. However, in this particular instance, the brandy was quite bothersome. Although it possesses a vanilla note that harmonizes with the natural sweetness of lobster, I found its oaky profile to be a significant distraction, clashing with the other flavors (abundant garlic, dried oregano) in this otherwise distinctly Italian dish. Nevertheless, I desired to include alcohol in the stock, as it serves as an excellent solvent for flavor molecules (refer to: vodka sauce), which was precisely what I aimed to extract from the lobster bodies and shells. Therefore, I opted for white wine, which offers a more subdued flavor and a bright acidity that complements the other components in the sauce.
The final modification I made to the stock occurred late in my development process: I incorporated a significantly greater amount of fat. My previous attempts at the recipe approached my objective, yet I was still facing challenges with the tomato-heavy sauce, which failed to provide sufficient lobster flavor. After taking a break from refining the recipe, I envisioned a sauce that was indeed tomato-based, but not in the conventional pomodoro sauce manner. I aspired for a richer tomato sauce enriched with olive oil and brimming with lobster flavor. A considerable portion of the color and some of the flavor of shellfish is fat-soluble, so increasing the quantity of lobster-infused oil in the sauce suddenly appeared to be an obvious choice. After increasing the oil used to sauté the lobster bodies in the stock from a quarter cup to a full cup, everything came together seamlessly. I ultimately achieved a richer sauce that fulfilled its lobster potential.
Utilize the Stock as a Steamer
Prior to initiating the stock during one trial of this recipe, I had disassembled the lobsters into bodies, claws, and tails. The bodies were placed in the stockpot, while the tails and claws required further attention. Extracting raw lobster meat from the shell is nearly impossible (I have witnessed some individuals accomplish it, but it is exceedingly challenging), thus it necessitates
To ensure the lobster is cooked sufficiently to easily emerge from its shell, it is advisable to steam the tails and claws separately due to their slightly varying cooking times.
As I prepared to set up a small steamer, I glanced into my stockpot and discovered that I already possessed one. The low liquid volume in my stock allowed the shells to protrude above the surface, indicating that they could serve as an improvised steaming rack. By placing the claws first and then the tails on the shells and covering the pot, I successfully steamed them without any issues, with any juices that escaped flowing directly into the stock. (It is acceptable for the claws and tails to be partially submerged; the brief cooking duration ensures they will be cooked properly.)
The par-cooked lobster meat rests atop the pasta, just prior to being mixed in. It appears quite tender, which is a positive indication that it will not overcook when exposed to the heat of the pasta.
The advantage of this method, along with the precise steaming times specified in the recipe, is that the meat easily detaches from the shell while remaining slightly undercooked. Consequently, when it is finally combined with the hot pasta, it achieves perfect doneness without becoming rubbery.
Utilize Tomato, but Exercise Moderation
In line with my choice to create a richer tomato sauce, I also aimed for a less soupy consistency. Considering that several cups of lobster stock are incorporated into the sauce, it can become excessively watery if an entire can of tomatoes and all their juices are included. By draining the whole peeled tomatoes before mashing them, while reserving the liquid they are packed in for another purpose, I was able to create a distinctly tomato-flavored sauce that is richer and, as previously mentioned, not so saturated with tomato juices that it resembles a traditional pomodoro sauce served with spaghetti.
Opt for Spiciness, but Avoid Overdoing It.
Determining the appropriate level of chile heat to incorporate into the sauce is a matter of personal preference; however, I would advise everyone to exercise some caution in this regard. While the dish is named fra diavolo, which translates to "brother devil" and suggests a fiery intensity, it is important to remember that there is delicate lobster present in this dish. Even the devil himself might think twice before overwhelming such exquisite flavors with excessive spice. My intention was to highlight the lobster as the star of this otherwise bold pasta dish. Therefore, while it is advisable to make it sufficiently spicy to awaken your taste buds, it may be prudent to avoid an excessively fiery experience.
Gremolata Breadcrumbs for the Win
During the later stages of my recipe development, I mentioned to Sasha that I was contemplating the addition of lemony breadcrumbs to sprinkle atop the pasta, providing a light crunch and a refreshing citrus flavor. He recommended that I utilize the gremolata breadcrumbs he had created for his bean stew featuring 'nduja and kale. I have a strong preference for not reinventing the wheel, so I adopted his recipe verbatim to incorporate the breadcrumbs into this dish, and they turned out to be absolutely ideal.
Make-Ahead and Storage
The lobster stock can be made in advance, and the claws and tails can be partially cooked and shelled up to one day prior. It is advisable to store them in separate, airtight containers in the refrigerator.
INGREDIENTS
- 2 1 1/2 lb Fresh Eddy Lobsters (see order page)
- 3 oz Olive Oil
- 1 tbs Garlic, minced
- 1/2 tsp Basil
- 1/2 tsp Oregano
- 1/4 tsp White Pepper (Black is acceptable)
- 1/4 tsp Red Pepper, crushed
- 3-4 dashes Tabasco Sauce
- 24 oz Marinara Sauce
- 1/2 cup Dry Red Wine
- 1 1/2-2 lb Pasta
INSTRUCTIONS
Cook and pick your lobsters. Boil water for your pasta. In a sauté pan heat the oil and garlic over medium heat. Cook just enough to heat the garlic slightly (30-40 seconds). Add lobster meat and all the spices and tabasco sauce. Cook over medium heat for 1-2 minutes. Add marinara sauce and red wine. Bring to a boil, then let simmer for 3-4 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Serve over your pasta. Great dish for those of you that like a little spice! Enjoy !
